Another year and another trip to Wales to try and use some Welsh for real - this time, for the first time for me, in the North. Thought I would share some of the places that I visited here, in case it helps anyone else.
Caernarfon
+90% of the places I visited/people I spoke to here spoke Welsh, so this is is definitely not an exhaustive list - unless stated otherwise, there are Welsh speaking staff in these locations.
Llety Arall
I stayed in this hotel in the centre of the walled town. It’s part of a community enterprise which also supports the language and provides spaces and facilities to the community - including learners groups, gigs etc
The rooms themselves are comfortable, a good size and furnished to a high standard. They also offer a shared kitchen space. There aren’t staff on site, but those that meet you to check you in will talk Welsh.
Tân
Good pizza restaurant in the centre of town. Staff spoke with us and each other in Welsh. Welsh language menus too.
https://tanwoodfiredpizza.co.uk/
Wal
Contemporary British/European restaurant with a Roman wall in its interior. I only had breakfast here, but that was very good. I think this is associated with Tân nextdoor.
https://www.walrestaurant.co.uk/
Black Boy Inn
Traditional pub serving decent food (with big portions) and beer.
https://www.black-boy-inn.com/
Caffi Maes
Decent cafe, good ice cream
https://maps.app.goo.gl/UmXNR5En4rVWdYX88?g_st=ac
Reubens Coffee House
Didn’t try anything here as the staff did not speak Welsh
https://maps.app.goo.gl/JtjGibrKC3wJ39iv5?g_st=ac
Ty Becws
Welsh speaking bakery
Bar Bach
Apparently the smallest bar in Wales, nice staff, good choice of local craft beer.
Jac y Do
Great selection of local craft and bottled beer. Friendly bar staff, happy to talk.
https://siopjacydo.cymru/en/home/
Castell Caernarfon
Must see attraction, huge. Staff on the counters and in the shop speak Welsh. Welsh language video in one of the exhibitions, and mostly bilingual information boards. The only thing that was English only was part of the regimental museum
https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/castell-caernarfon
Galeri
Arts centre with exhibitions/cinema/theatre/caffi
Good cakes!
https://www.galericaernarfon.com/
Cei Llechi
A collection of independent shops, galleries, cafes, bar/restaurants, businesses… and a blacksmith!
The blacksmith is employed by The National Museum and happy to talk in Welsh. Didn’t try everywhere here but the was a lot of Welsh language music being played so likely a safe bet
Palas Print
Welsh language bookshop. Friendly and chatty owner.
I’ve definitely missed somewhere out here, but that’s a start! One of the easiest places I’ve visited to find Welsh spoken - its basically everywhere, even if it’s spoken a bit faster than I’m used to! The accent certainly took a bit of getting used to but certainly wasn’t impenetrable.
Llandwrog
Ty’n Lan
Great community that offers good food and accommodation. Rooms were exceptional. Very friendly staff and locals, had multiple unprompted conversations with other people in the bar. We were very privileged to be there on the Senedd election results night, seeing everyone crowding around the TV, applauding results and bursting out into song was just incredible.
The pub does at times hold events such as live music and comedy.
Parc Glynffon
Stately home with small shops and Victorian gardens. Wasn’t sure what I’d make of this before visiting but as it was nearby I thought why not.
The house itself isn’t open but there is a cafe, gift shop and small businesses on site (eg. Soap manufacturer, soft furnishings, woodcarving). One of the small shops didn’t speak Welsh, one was a learner (of course I recommended SSIW), but everyone else was fluent. The gardens themselves were gorgeous but we were lucky that the weather was good.
The next day I walked from Trefor to Nant Gwertheyrn via Tre’r Ceiri and Llithfaen. A spectacular walk but hard going with a weeks worth of luggage in my rucksack.
Llithfaen
Tafarn Y Fic
Small, friendly community owned pub with an emphasis on the Welsh language. They do food at certain times but worth checking first. Friendly landlady.
http://www.tafarnyfic.com/home.htm
Nant Gwertheyrn
Welsh language school and heritage centre. Welsh spoken by the staff on site. Accommodation and cafe (shuts early) are fantastic, views even better. Interesting exhibits in the old chapel, doctors office and quarryman’s cottage. Small gift shop on site.
That said I did leave feeling a little disappointed, possibly due to unfair expectations. Of course I wasn’t there for a course but I was disappointed by the lack of Welsh heard there - I met a couple who came to sit with us at breakfast, but otherwise (other than the few members of staff) everyone was English. I think it suffers a bit from the spectacular setting, its very Instagrammable. I even had some of the other guests approach me several times assuming that I was a member of staff - presumably as I was trying to avoid speaking English which is a bit insulting? Overall a bit disappointing - I don’t think I’d bother staying there again as a hotel, but I’d still love to do a course there one day.
Nefyn
Yr Heliwr
Fantastic pub with accommodation and food on certain nights. Room was smart and comfortable with cute built-in bunkbeds. They weren’t serving food on the 2 nights that we were there, but they did have a great range of drinks. They also put on a variety of events including a Welsh learners night which happened to be on when we were there - @CatrinLliarJones I think I met your sister there (if I understood her correctly that is), so please say thanks to her for talking to me.
This place is a real find. We spent both evenings sat at the bar, talking to the staff and the locals. We had a whole family come to join us when someone told them we were learners. Honestly, I’m already looking forward to visiting here again.
Nanhoron Hotel
Ate here twice. Unfortunately the first time we got English staff only, but the second time there were plenty of Welsh speakers. Good food.
https://www.nanhoronhotel.com/
Môrwen
Caffi which did a great breakfast. Again the first time we went in, the two ladies behind the counter spoke English only. The second time, there was also a Welsh speaking man who I think was the cook.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/um8UgYHVbtBLq32L7?g_st=ac
Becws Islyn
Little cafe/shop by the beach. Decent food, great views. Most of the staff here speak Welsh.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/6TnzLavMbnup8UZ18?g_st=ac
Caffi Porthdinllaen
Nice cafe in Morfa Nefyn. Does good ice cream, Welsh speaking.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/QSH3oGkdVeGos78EA?g_st=ac
Bragdy Cwrw Llyn
Local brewery in a pretty new building. Obviously a good range of good beer. Indoor and outdoor seating. Occasional live music. The staff and locals speak Welsh and are happy to talk.
Maritime Museum
Small but interesting in a converted church. Staffed by a fluent speaker and a learner.
https://www.llyn-maritime-museum.co.uk/
Shops
The Premier in Nefyn and the Costcutter in Morfa have Welsh speaking staff. In the latter I had to show an elderly lady how to use the self checkout in Welsh.
Pwllheli
Only paid a flying visit to the town, but the following places speak Welsh.
Becws Gwalia
Bakery/cafe, but no seating.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/sHbDvQuG3qtHLELq5?g_st=ac
Felin Fwyd
Small cafe
https://www.facebook.com/380978355716554/
Glasu
Cafe/ice cream parlour. Owned by a local farm using their own milk. Great ice-cream with a whole range of flavours including some unusual ones - I had Tunnocks Teacake flavour - amazing
https://m.facebook.com/glasupwllheli/
Criccieth
The Lion Hotel
Decent hotel and restaurant. A lot of the staff speak Welsh.
https://www.lionhotelcriccieth.co.uk/
Cadwaladers
Cafe/ice-cream parlour with accommodation! I didn’t stay here but will check it out next time. Good bara brith and cup of tea
The Bryn Hir Arms
Town centre pub. Welsh speaking barman.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/peuxjYjLKK5FQNFt8?g_st=ac
Comparing this trip to my previous ones in the South (Ceredigion & Sir Gâr, Aberystwyth, Towy valley) this was the easiest one for sticking with Welsh only. Must have been over 90% Welsh for the whole trip. Having been learning South Welsh it took a few days to get up to speed with the accent (and I certainly didn’t understand everything, maybe 75%) but it was easy to do more than get by. I had conversations several hours long in the pubs. And people we sooooooo friendly.
